Location

This scenically lovely coastal route straddles the Eastern and Western Cape provincial borders, and includes part of the famed Garden Route. Among its many assets are sun, sea, the golden sands, sheltered coves and resorts of the pleasant shoreline, the forested hillsides and deep river gorges of the hinterland and, pride of the region, the enchanting Tsitsikamma national park.

Major seaside centres include Plettenberg Bay and Jeffrey's Bay , which rank among the country's more fashionable resort towns, the latter renowned for the magnificent rollers that pound the shoreline and draw surfers from all over the world. Storms River, technically the eastern limit of the Garden Route, is both a scatter of buildings (its full name is actually Storms River Mouth) and a watercourse, the latter rising in the Tsitsikamma mountains to flow through the lovely natural and exotic forests of the uplands to reach the sea in the Tsitsikamma park.

Farther east along the coast is Oyster Bay, a hamlet specially favoured by fishermen. St Francis Bay is a small resort an hour's drive along the coast from Port Elizabeth. Next-door is the pretty little fishing harbour of Cape St Francis and the new Port St Francis.

The area's main attraction is a superb beach, which offers safe bathing and plenty of sun worshipping (summer days are warm and usually cloudless). The village and its immediate surrounds are extremely well served by guesthouses, B&Bs and self-catering accommodation. There's also a nine-hole golf course. St Francis bay itself, a wide embayment which curves eastwards to the fringes of Port Elizabeth, is fast becoming one of the country's most popular destinations for vacationing families and water sports enthusiasts.

North of Storms River, in the lovely fruit-producing Langkloof valley between the Kouga and Baviaanskloof ranges in the north and the Tsitsikamma in the south, lies Joubertina, an historic little centre noted for its sandstone and yellowwood Dutch Reformed church, first building to be erected in town.

Along the road to the east (the R62), on the quiet northern fringes of the Tsitsikamma forest, lies Kareedouw, gateway to the Langkloof. The village started life as a timber camp; the local furniture factory (fine pieces are made from the local yellowwood, imbuia, blackwood and stinkwood trees) is well worth a visit; the surrounding countryside is a joy when the ericas and proteas bloom.

The farmlands and pastures around Humansdorp, a fairly substantial country town inland from St Francis Bay in the Kromme River valley, are given over to fields of oats, to citrus groves and to grazing for sheep; the local museum has some intriguing displays of old farming implements and household items. A little way to the north-east is Hankey, founded as a mission station in 1825 and now the main centre of the Gamtoos River Valley.

The area has a number of attractions for the quieter kind of weekender, including the bird-rich Loerie dam, the new Yellowwood Park resort on the banks of the Gamtoos River and the Stinkhoutberg nature reserve (permit required). Last stop on you way up the R330 is the village of Patensie, from where you can explore the Kouga dam and its recreational attractions, the Baviaanskloof wilderness area (see below) and the pleasant countryside, which is largely given over to the growing of tobacco and vegetables.

Highlights

• Parks and reserves. The route's best-known sanctuary is the Tsitsikamma national park, its rather odd named derived, aptly, from the Khoi word for running water - the area is notable for its good all-year-round rains and for the many perennial streams that tumble down the slopes of the backing mountains. The park is an 80-kilometre coastal strip famed for its forests and rich array of wild flowers (orchids, lilies and much else), its birds, its enchanting landscapes and its offshore marine reserve. The Cape St Francis nature reserve offers game viewing and bird watching (the rare black oystercatcher is rather special). Well Highlights on your way east is the Van Stadens wild flower garden. In the ruggedly mountainous area near Patensie, some 100 kilometres north-west of Port Elizabeth, you'll find the Baviaanskloof wilderness area, a wild expanse of high peak, plateau and deep valley. Hiking routes have been charted; self-catering accommodation is available.
• Walks and trails This is fine walking country. Best known and arguably most rewarding of the longer treks is the Otter trail that winds through the Tsitsikamma national park (see above). The five-day, 41-kilometre route leads from Storms River Mouth to Nature's Valley in the west, taking you through a quite entrancing countryside of dense indigenous forest, fast-flowing streams, waterfalls, cliffs, hidden coves, beaches and tidal pools bright with marine organisms. The trail follows the coastline for most of the way; longest daily stretch is an undemanding 14 kilometres, and there is plenty of time to study and enjoy the bird, marine and floral life, to swim in sea and estuary, sunbathe, enjoy the views, and watch for the arrival of the whales (see Whale-Watching Paradise below). Rustic cabins provide overnight accommodation. Among other notable walks and hikes - a few among many - are those in the Baviaanskloof wilderness area (see above). There are some lovely rambles in the Van Stadens wild flower garden and the various nature reserves between Cape St Francis and Port Elizabeth.
• Watersports The coastal stretch offers almost unrivalled opportunities for surfing (Jeffrey's Bay is the best-known but by no means the only top venue), water-skiing, scuba diving, snorkeling, sailing, rubber ducking, power boating, jet skiing, canoeing and windsurfing. There's also fine fishing from beach and rock.
• Whale-watcher's paradise One can often see whales and dolphins sporting beyond the breakers that lap the shoreline from Plettenberg Bay right across to St Francis Bay. Most common are the 60-ton southern rights, which come inshore to breed and calve from about June through to November; less frequent visitors include the humpback whales (usually in June and July), Bryde's whales and to a lesser extent minke whales (in autumn). The latter two, which follow the fish shoals, are often accompanied by a frenzied mass of dolphins and gannets. An occasional killer whale (which, despite its name, is in fact a giant dolphin) will also make its appearance. Dolphin species include the bottlenose, the common and the humpback. Best viewing points in the Plettenberg Bay area are Lookout Beach (ice-cold beer while you wait), Signal Hill, the Robberg nature reserve and the rocks off Beacon Island; good view sites farther along the coast include Nature's Valley and the cliffs that line the rugged Tsitsikamma shore.
• Highest bungee-jumps The bridge that crosses the precipitous gorge of the Storms River is 192 metres in length and a dizzy 139 metres high. Much longer (366 metres) and only slightly less lofty is the grand Van Stadens River Bridge, which carries four lanes of traffic and overlooks a quite beautifully forested gorge. On the eastern side of the gorge is the lovely Van Stadens wild flower reserve and bird sanctuary. There are stunning views, both down and across the hills, from both bridges - and both, of course, attract the more intrepid bungee-jumper.

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