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Eastern Province - East London |  |
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Eastern Cape; on the far eastern seaboard. This small city, South Africa's only major river-port, huddles around the mouth of the Buffalo, a fairly big watercourse that rises in the high and beautiful Amatola mountains to the north-west. Founded in 1846 (the settlement was originally known as Port Rex), East London grew rapidly following the arrival, in 1858, of more than 3000 German immigrants (see further on). The harbour developed more slowly - in the mid-1930s ships' passengers were still being disembarked via wicker baskets and lighters - but the dockyards are now big and busy. Bulk minerals, citrus products and wool, from the farms of the interior, are major export cargoes; wool auctions are held in town; motor assembly contributes a lot to the local economy. East London is also a popular tourist destination: its broad beaches, safe swimming, mild climate (average 7.5 hours of sunshine throughout the year), pleasant parks and gardens, good hotels and restaurants and excellent sporting amenities attract a great many summer visitors. The city's attractions tend to be of quieter, family-orientated kind but the entertainment scene is lively enough in the holiday season. There are some lovely day-drives both along the coast and inland. The main thoroughfare is Oxford Street, where there are shops and office blocks (though few high-rises). The airport is 12 kilometres from town (the terminal is in Terminus Street). To the north of the city is the resort centre of Gonubie. Holidaymakers come to East London and its flanking coasts for the swimming, the sunbathing, surfing, snorkelling, scuba-diving, angling (from rock, surf and beach) and deep-sea fishing. The city itself has three fine beaches; the nearest and best known is Orient, a golden stretch of sand along which runs the Esplanade. Eastern and Nahoon beaches are quieter; the latter hosts international surfing contests. The seafront boasts two freshwater swimming pools and an aquarium (see further on). Farther afield, along what is called the Romantic Coast that runs away to the south-west, are Kid's Beach, an attractive little resort town. Nearby Kayser's Beach, Christmas Rock, Fuller's Bay and Cave Rock are favourite fishing spots. To the north-west of East London are some enticing seaside venues, among them: Beacon Bay, and next-door Bonza Bay. This is a pleasant residential development on the Quinera estuary, noted for its beach, lagoon, palm-fringed seafront and two little nature reserves that serve as bird sanctuaries. Gonubie Mouth, on the charming lagoon of the Gonubie River estuary about 25 kilometres from the city, offers outstanding tourist amenities and a small, quite charming nature reserve that hosts more than 130 different kinds of bird (the waterfowl are rather special). The lagoon is best viewed and enjoyed on a stroll along the boardwalk. Haga-Haga and Morgan's Bay, quite a distance up the shoreline, are noted for the splendid beaches; the seashells are prolific and lovely. There are pleasant walks in the Morgan's Bay lagoon area; Kei Mouth is popular among rock-fishermen. Bosbokstrand A private resort; the area comprises forest, beach, estuary, and a rich birdlife. Nature walks include the Strandloper hiking trail. Cape Henderson, a rugged stretch of coastal terrain favoured by walkers and bird-watchers; flora includes wild banana, candlewood and milkwood trees.
Aquarium On the Esplanade; a smallish place, but its 400 or so marine species are well chosen. Also in residence are penguins and seals; the latter perform for the public twice a day. Here, too, oil-polluted and otherwise injured sea creatures are nursed back to health. Museums Most prominent of these is the East London Museum, among whose exhibits is the first coelacanth to be caught. This strange, primitive, mauve-blue fish was thought to have become extinct about 60 million years ago, but in 1938 some fishermen netted a specimen in the offshore waters. In due course it was identified by an astonished was Professor J.L.B. Smith of Rhodes university, who described it as a ‘living fossil'. Also on view are Xhosa ethnic and cultural displays (including some fine beadwork) and sections devoted to local history and to the story of East London's harbour - which made a valuable contribution to technology in the 1960s when its engineer, Eric Merrifield, developed the ‘dolos', a concrete interlocking block that is now used in harbour construction the world over. Other museum-type venues include John Gately House, an early Irish settler's home filled with period (Victorian) furniture; and the Calgary Transport Museum, 13 kilometres out on the Stutterheim road. The latter offers a nostalgically intriguing collection of restored horse-drawn vehicles. You'll find some impressive local works of art in the Anne Bryant gallery, just off Oxford Street. Worth more than a passing glance are two colonial-type monuments: the Anglo-Boer war equestrian statue and, on the Esplanade, the memorial that commemorates the arrival of the German immigrants in 1858. Most of the newcomers were ex-Legionnaire veterans of the Crimean war; later that year about 150 Irish colleens were brought in as prospective brides.
The Queen's Park botanical gardens, located between city centre and river, contain some attractive indigenous flora (including the crane flower, which is common in the area) the zoological section is home to around 1200 animals. Amalinda nature conservation station, near the city (it's off the N2 to King William's Town ), features a fish hatchery; also on view are antelope, reptiles and a great many birds. There are also some pleasant picnic and fishing spots. Bridle Drift dam and nature reserve, 25 kilometres from the city on the Mount Coke road, is a popular recreation venue offering watersports, a nature trail, sailing and good bird-watching. Umtiza nature reserve, 15 kilometres from East London, will appeal to those who fancy a quiet morning's walk in charming surrounds.
Mdantsane and Zwelitsha are two large dormitory developments on the 60-kilometre road inland to King William's Town. Next-door Bisho serves as the Eastern Cape's provincial capital. |
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EAST LONDON Western Cape
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